Deciding to get a new puppy is extremely exciting but its also a decision that needs to be thoroughly thought out. Before deciding to get a puppy ask yourself – “Is this the right time for all of us?” , puppies are hard work and require lots of training and attention, for the first few weeks (at least!) its important the puppy isn’t left alone for long periods of time. Good things to consider are :-

• Who wants the puppy and who will be doing the main bulk of the walks, training, feeds, middle of the night toilet breaks? ( If the answer to this is the children , its a good idea to make sure you are able/want to do these things too if they are not as committed as you think they might be, children love puppies and dogs but they also have school, hobbies and their social events to attend which could mean they dont have as much time or motivation to look after the puppy as you may think. )

• What are your long term plans? Hopefully you’ll have your lovely new puppy for at least the next 10 years so what are your plans during this time? If you’re going to have children in that time how will you ensure you have time for the dog? Do you want to go off travelling the world or go to university? Are you going to be moving , if so will the dog be able to come? Will your job mean you need to travel?

• Are you able to financially support a dog? Dogs can be very expensive,after the initial cost of buying a dog consider the cost per month for insurance, worming, flea treatments, food, dog walker/daycare if needed,training, beds, toys etc.

“What type of dog is right for you and your lifestyle?”

So you’ve decided its the right time to get a dog , now what sort of dog is right for you? A good place to start is thinking of

• What size dog you’d like ( Will it be appropriate for the living space, car etc?)
• What you hoping to do with the dog ( go out running , walking holidays, cuddles on the sofa?) , although every individual dog is different ( You may find a springer spaniel that is happy to sleep all day or a basset hound who loves going on long runs) its still important to consider what the breed was bred to do and their daily requirements because of that.
• What potential health and behaviour issues does the breed you might like have and what health tests are available to check these? (This is not to say that dog will have these problems)
• What diet does that breed require?
• What exercise does the breed require and how much time have you realistically got to offer this? Can a dog walker or daycare help with this?
• Would you like a dog or a bitch?

Finding a breeder

Finding the correct breeder is obviously extremely important –

Its important to have an initial conversation with a potential breeder to find out some background information on them, some questions to ask are :-

• What is their licence number if applicable (if they breed more than 3 litters in a 12 month period and sell at least 1 of these puppies they will require a licence)
• How many years have they been breeding and how many litters have they bred?
• When is their next planned litter and is there a waiting list?
• What do they consider when pairing two dogs to mate? ( Is it based on temperaments, health, construction, sporting ability?)
• Where will the puppies be raised for the 8 weeks and the bitch kept during her pregnancy?
• What will the puppies be doing for the 8 weeks whilst with the breeder?
  • Will they see different people/animals
  • Will they be socialised with different stimuli – Noises, smells, textures etc
  • Will the breeder start to encourage toilet training in later weeks?
  • Will they be health tested , microchipped and will they have any immunizations done by the breeder?
• Do they offer long term support after you have your puppy? Although it will hopefully never be needed, good breeders will have a contract with you that states among other things that you cannot breed the dog/bitch without their permission and that if the dog needs to be rehomed, it will be returned directly to the breeder.

These are good examples of questions to ask on an initial phonecall/meet, you should always find out as much information as possible and a good breeder will want to do the same to you!

For more information or help with your puppy contact Cambridgeshire Canine Academy. www.cambridgeshirecaninecreche.co.uk

Nikki Hopkin IMDT

The post Deciding to get a puppy and what to ask a breeder appeared first on Cambridgeshire Canine Creche.

Foods
The list below may appear like a long list of things for your dog to avoid, but it is important to remember that they are not human, and that some human foods can be very dangerous to dogs. If you wish to give your dog a treat this Christmas, please ensure that it is something dog-friendly and avoid giving them the foods listed below.

Chocolate
Chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine, which is poisonous to dogs, as well as other animals such as cats, rodents and rabbits. Generally speaking, the darker and more expensive the chocolate, the more theobromine it contains, and therefore the more poisonous it is. White chocolate contains very little theobromine and so is unlikely to cause chocolate poisoning, but is still very fatty and can still make your dog ill.

Chocolate can initially cause vomiting and diarrhoea, but is a stimulant and so can lead to your dog becoming excitable, as well as developing muscle twitching, tremors, fitting and life threatening problems with their heart. Severe cases can be fatal.

Over the Christmas period make sure that all chocolate is out of the reach of your dog, this includes chocolate coins hung from your Christmas tree, advent calendars, boxes of chocolate put out on Christmas day and don’t forget the wrapped chocolaty presents under your Christmas tree (just because its wrapped doesn’t mean your dog can’t smell it!). Although chocolate wrappers are not poisonous, they can cause an obstruction in the gut if eaten. This can be very dangerous and may require surgical intervention. Signs of an obstruction may include vomiting, lethargy, your dog being off their food, not defecating or finding it difficult to defecate.

Raisins, grapes, currants and sultanas
Grapes, raisins, currants and sultanas are all toxic to dogs and it is believed the dried forms of these fruits are more toxic than grapes. It is not known why these fruits are toxic to dogs, or how much is poisonous. Some dogs have eaten large quantities of this fruit and had no effects, while others have become unwell after very small amounts.

At this time of year, it is therefore important that all foods that contain these fruits be kept away from your dog; these include Christmas cake, Christmas pudding, fruit cake, mince pies, stolen and especially chocolate covered raisins.

As well as possibly causing vomiting and diarrhoea, these fruits can cause kidney failure, which can sometime be delayed for 24 to 72 hours. Kidney failure may sometimes present as a decrease in urination, your dog may also appear dull, or show signs of increased thirst.

Prompt treatment is important. If your dog does eat any amount contact your veterinarian immediately.

Macadamia nuts
Why these nuts are poisonous to dogs is not known, but macadamia nuts can cause your dog to appear weak (particularly in their hind limbs), dull, sleepy and they can sometimes appear wobbly on their feet, or they may appear in pain or stiff when walking. Vomiting, tremors, lethargy and an increased body temperature can also occur. These effects usually appear within 12 hours and may last up to two days.

Some macadamia nuts are covered in chocolate and so pose a double risk to dogs.

Blue cheese
Roquefort and other blue cheeses contain a substance called roquefortine C, which is a substance produced by the fungus used to produce these cheeses. Dogs appear sensitive to this substance and in more extreme cases can cause dogs to quickly develop muscle tremors and seizures, which may last for up to two days.

Alcohol
Dogs are believed to be more sensitive to ethanol than humans and so drinking even a small amount of alcohol can cause effects. Certain alcoholic drinks may be more appealing to dogs, such as cream or egg based drinks. Dogs may develop similar effects to those expected in humans, including becoming drowsy, wobbly on their feet and in more severe cases they can develop low body temperature, low blood sugar, seizures and coma.

Bones
When cooked, all bones become brittle and can easily splinter. Eating chicken, turkey or goose carcases may cause larger pieces of bone to cause an obstruction, while smaller pieces may irritate the gut, or even penetrate the stomach or intestinal wall, which may require surgery.

When preparing your Christmas day meal, ensure that any meat is kept on the kitchen surface, or out of reach of your dog. When throwing away a carcass, take it to the outside bin, therefore avoiding any temptation for your dog to raid your kitchen bin during the night.

Allium species
Onions, garlic, leeks, shallots and chives all belong to the Allium family. These plants all contain a substance which can damage red blood cells in dogs and can cause life threatening anaemia. Signs may not present for a few days, but can include your dog vomiting, having diarrhoea or abdominal pain and they may appear sleepy, dull, weak, off their food and sometimes they may have rapid breathing. At Christmas ensure that your dog is kept away from sage and onion stuffing, onion based gravies or any other allium based foods.

Rich Fatty Foods
Many Christmas foods are very fatty or rich, and a festive overindulgence by your dog may result in a nasty bout of vomiting and diarrhoea. Large high fat meals can lead to pancreatitis, a very painful and serious condition, which can be costly to treat.

Mouldy foods
It’s easy to overestimate how much food is needed over the Christmas period and some food may be thrown away. Mouldy foods can contain lots of different toxins and, if eaten, may make your dog ill. One particular substance, which is mostly found on mouldy dairy products, bread and nuts, can cause dogs to quickly develop muscle tremors and seizures, which may last for up to two days. If you compost your food scraps, then make sure that they are kept outside in a sealed container that your dog can not access.

Plants
Poinsettia
Poinsettia is often said to be very toxic, but the potency of this plant is often greatly exaggerated. Whilst it may not be as poisonous as you think, it can still cause excessive salivation and sometimes vomiting.

Holly
This plant is generally considered to be of low toxicity, but the spikey leaves may cause physical damage if eaten, and the berries can cause vomiting and diarrhoea.

Mistletoe
This festive shrub is considered to be of low toxicity, but the berries may cause a tummy upset if eaten. Some reports suggest that mistletoe is very poisonous, but these refer to American mistletoe (Phoradendron flavescens), which is native to warm temperate and tropical regions of the Americas, rather than European mistletoe (Viscum album), which is native to Europe.

Ivy
This vine may cause a tummy upset if eaten, while substantial or prolonged skin contact can cause severe irritation, or an allergic contact dermatitis. Not to be confused with American poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans), which is not commonly found in the UK.

Potpourri
Potpourri is made up of a number of dried plants and flowers. These fragrant decorations may cause, at the very least, vomiting and diarrhoea. How toxic your potpourri is will depend on which dried plants have been used. Identifying which plants are in your potpourri is often very difficult, especially as the dried plant matter are often artificially coloured. Potpourri often includes harder items, like pine cones or bark, and these could become stuck in your dog’s throat and cause breathing difficulties, or an obstruction in their gut. This can be very dangerous and may require surgical intervention. Signs of an obstruction may include vomiting, lethargy, your dig being off their food, not defecating or finding it difficult to defecate.

Christmas trees
Most species of Christmas tree are of low toxicity, but oils from the needles may be irritating to the mouth and stomach, causing excessive salivation, vomiting and diarrhoea if chewed. Needles from these trees are sharp and can cause physical injury.

Additional Christmas tree concerns.

Tinsel, ornaments and Christmas tree lights may be enticing to your dog and may appear to be great toys, but they can cause and obstruction, or even gastric rupture if sharp, spikey or easily breakable. Christmas tree lights also may cause an electric shock if chewed.

Antifreeze
Care should be taken when using antifreeze products, which may contain the chemical ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol can be lethal when ingested and its sweet taste may make it tempting for dogs. Antifreeze should therefore be stored in secure containers away from pets. If using antifreeze, make sure that your pets are kept well away and if any is spilt, ensure that it is cleaned up. Effects of poisoning may initially appear as vomiting, diarrhoea, weakness and the dog appearing drunk. An untreated poisoned dog may then appear to recover, but this may be followed by kidney failure.

Prompt treatment is important. If your dog does drink or lick any amount contact your veterinarian immediately.

Christmas presents
Batteries
If a battery is chewed and punctured by your dog it can cause chemical burns, or even heavy metal poisoning in very extreme cases. If swallowed whole, they are less likely to leak their contents, but can still cause a blockage. This can be very dangerous and may require surgical intervention. Signs of an obstruction may include vomiting, lethargy, being off their food, not defecating or finding it difficult to defecate.

Button batteries that become stuck in the throat, or in the gut, can produce an electric current which can significantly damage the surrounding tissue.

Silica gel sachets
These small sachets are commonly found in the packaging of items such as new shoes, electrical items, handbags etc. Silica gel is non-toxic, but the sachet is often labelled “Do not eat”, not because it is poisonous, but because it is not a food item and therefore should not be eaten. Although silica gel sachets are non-toxic, they could still cause a dangerous obstruction in the gut.

Wrapping or crepe paper
Eating wrapping paper or crepe paper may result in staining in and around the dogs mouth, which may look worrying, but both substances are of low toxicity and so unlikely to be poisonous. Eating a large amount however, may cause a potentially dangerous blockage in the gut.

Toys
During the excitement of Christmas, children’s toys may appear appealing to dogs and parts of toys may be swallowed, causing a potentially dangerous blockage in your dog’s gut.

What to do if you are concerned that your dog may have eaten something that they shouldn’t have?

• Consult your local veterinary practice immediately
• It is important that your veterinary practice make an informed decision as to whether your dog needs to be clinically assessed or treated. Where possible ensure that you tell them:
• What your dog has eaten
• How much has been eaten
• When it was eaten
• Do not try and make your dog sick. Trying to do this can sometimes cause other complications, which can make your dog unwell.

The post Dogs at Christmas appeared first on Cambridgeshire Canine Creche.

We place an order around every two weeks so please place your order online if you’d like some – or ask in the creche office if you’d a sample to try.

Acana Dog Food gets 94/100 on nutritional rating! Acana’s Grain-free range is built around a very high meat content, a broad range of top-end vegetables, fruits and herbs and zero cereals.
Acana Grain-free contains a very respectable 60% meat. It is worth noting though that much of this is fresh meat, so once the water is removed the dry meat content will be quite a bit less. Nevertheless, this is still more than the vast majority of dry foods and the quality of the meat is second to none.
Champion Petfoods (who produce Acana) believe that modern dogs are largely unchanged from wolves and the Acana ingredients lists are tailored to reflect this. Each food is based on the type of foods that would once have been available to wolves in a certain North American environments: Grasslands, Wild Prairie, Ranchlands and Pacifica. Acana also attempts to recreate the variety that a wild diet would entail with several meat and fish sources in each food as well as a whole host of vegetables, fruits and herbs. Although not all nutritionists agree with this philosophy, nobody can deny that Acana contains an excellent selection of top-end ingredients.
Like the rest of the Acana range, the Grain-free foods are free from all common allergy causing ingredients and artificial additives making them suitable for sensitive dogs. Their zero grain content also makes them a popular back-up choice for raw-feeders.
A bag of Acana does not come in cheap but once you factor in the remarkably low suggested feeding amounts, the price per day actually works out to be fairly economical. In fact, for most dogs the Wild Prairie variety actually works out as one of the least expensive foods to feed in it’s class.
Conclusion: A top quality, grain-free, high meat food and a lot more economical than the price tag suggests.

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Various schemes such as The Kennel Club’s Assured Breeder Scheme are in place to register and monitor professional breeders of pedigree puppies, but not all good breeders are enrolled in the scheme, and the scheme also fails to cover breeders who produce hybrid or “designer” dogs, such as the Labradoodle and the Cockapoo, both of which are very popular, but are not pedigree breeds.

If you want to make sure that you pick a responsible breeder to buy a puppy from, or to reserve a puppy from a future litter, there are various things that you should look for and find out fairly easily, to ensure that you go about your start to dog ownership in the right way.

Read on to learn more about how you can tell if a dog breeder is a responsible breeder in every way.

Membership in the Assured Breeder Scheme
As mentioned, certain types of pedigree breeders are eligible for membership in The Kennel Club Assured Breeder Scheme, and if the breeder you have in mind is a member, this is always a good indicator. The scheme polices breeders and aspects of breeding such as how many litters are produced, their general health, and at what age the breeders lets the pups go on to their new home.

However, membership of the scheme does not mean that you can neglect doing your own research, and as mentioned earlier, a lack of membership in the scheme does not automatically make a breeder a bad one!

Openness and transparency
The breeder in question should be happy to allow you to visit their premises (by arrangement) and see where and how all of the dogs are kept, including those that are pregnant, nursing litters, and their own pet dogs. The premises should be clean, well-cared for, and have obvious signs of being home to the dogs, as opposed to being a showcase where the dogs are shown to buyers, when they are actually kept elsewhere.

Health
The breeder should be breeding healthy dogs, and all of the dogs present should be healthy and in good condition. Keeping records of health testing and the genealogy of the breed lines is a good sign, and another good sign is if the breeder can talk to you in depth about any health issues that they have faced in their breed lines, how they have dealt with the affected dogs, and how they are working to improve the breed’s health.

The breeder should have a good relationship with a local veterinary practice, and ensure that the pups are seen and vaccinated when appropriate, and that the local vet knows their business and supports them.

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Meeting the needs of the dogs
The breeder and their premises should demonstrate that the emotional, developmental and psychological needs of their dogs and puppies are all being met, as well as their physical needs. The dogs and pups should have plenty of exercise, lots of toys, and lots of time spent interacting with people.

Expertise
Good breeders will specialise in just one or possibly two breeds of dogs that they are enthusiastic about and very knowledgeable about, and not simply be breeding lots of different breeds to make a profit. They should know the traits and tendencies of their breeds in details, including breed-specific problems and potential health issues too.

Understanding of the buying process
A responsible breeder should have a good understanding of how the buying process should go, and not expect every person who visits a litter to buy or reserve a pup. They should be open to and accepting of more than once visit before you make a decision, able to answer all of your questions, let you spend plenty of time with the litter, and also meet the dam and potentially the sire.

Support after sale
The breeder should have a contract of sale available for you to read before committing to a purchase, which should cover information on how the breeder will support you after the sale, as well as the details of the sale itself. The breeder should send a blanket, toys and possibly some food with the pup when you are ready to take them home, and be available to you in the weeks following the sale if you have any queries.

References
Aside from the first-time breeder, each breeder should be willing and able to provide references of people who have bought puppies from their previous litters, which you can speak to directly and find out how they feel the process went. Many breeders are also active in breed-specific clubs and organisations, or for some breeds, active in canine sport and activities as well, and word of mouth knowledge of any given breeder from within their specific field is also helpful.

Full article with thanks to https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/how-to-tell-if-a-dog-breeder-is-a-responsible-breeder.html

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Positive reinforcement in dog training can go by many names, most of which are valid and worthy: reward-based training, science-based training, force-free or pain-free training, etc. Regardless of the terminology, the general theory behind this line of thinking remains the same.

So what exactly is positive reinforcement?

If you give your dog a reward (praise, play, food, toys, etc.) when he responds to you or offers an action or a behavior that you like, then that behavior is likely to be repeated.

Your dog learns that good things happen to him when he does the thing you like.

Positive-reinforcement teaching techniques use non confrontational methods to work a dog’s brain – rewarding positive behavior, establishing rituals and training actions that are incompatible with negative behavior, and lessening a dog’s anger and frustration – all while enabling the dog to feel good inside. If you reinforce a dog’s desirable behaviors, there is less of a chance that she will indulge in other behaviors that you do not like. Decision-making is influenced without the use of force, and the dog’s trust in the owner is not violated through threatening treatment.

Using positive techniques to change undesirable behaviour requires that you first determine the cause of the behavior and then figure out how to modify and change it by giving the dog the ability to learn and feel differently. People learn to connect with their dogs and work through problems in a humane manner – strengthening the relationship by fostering mutual trust, providing affection, and encouraging cooperation. Increasing a dog’s enjoyment of social interaction gives the dog what she needs to deal with the pressures of domestic life. Dogs that are taught using positive reinforcement methods are more tolerant, self-controlled and behave much more predictably in different situations.

It is vitally important that you give your dog the opportunities and tools she needs to live successfully in your strange human world. A dog that is given consistent guidance from an early age grows up to be a confident dog. Education brings security, security brings confidence, and a confident dog has no need to show anxiety-based behaviors.

The strongest relationships between dogs and humans are based on cooperation and kindness rather than on human dominance and animal submission. If you choose to use positive techniques when building a relationship with your dog, you will be on your way to establishing and maintaining a connection that increases trust and results in a stronger, healthier bond between you. Put simply, if your dog feels good about you, she will be happier, confident, better behaved, and more inclined to respond to you when you ask her to do something

The process of changing a dog’s behavior using positive reinforcement relies first and foremost on understanding and patience; it takes consistency, repetition, and following this general roadmap:

This is the caption
INVESTIGATE. Identify why your dog is doing what she is doing. You cannot effectively deal with a behavior unless you know the root cause.
UNDERSTAND. Once you know why, then you can ask yourself how to treat the behavior. To do this, it is vitally important you understand your dog.
LEARN. Figure out how to communicate clearly. Effective two-way communication increases the bond between you.
MOTIVATE. Find what motivates your dog and use this while teaching. Rewards in the form of food, toys, praise, or play are powerful, but every dog is different, so find out what motivates your dog the most.
BE KIND. Never hit, scream at, or yank your dog. Do not combat fear with more fear—recognize your dog’s concerns, then slowly and gently help her overcome them.
SLOW DOWN. Go very slowly when dealing with anxiety-related behaviors.
BE CONSISTENT. Everyone in your dog’s life must be on the same page and provide consistency in training, expectations and reactions. If one person lets your dog on the couch and someone else does not, she will get confused.
BE PATIENT. Just like with humans, the more significant the behavior issue, the longer it can take to develop a solution. Stay the course and always remember that the power of positive training is the right choice in all situations, no matter what the issue.

Full credit for article goes to https://positively.com/dog-training/positive-training/positive-reinforcement/

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Did you know Cambridgeshire Canine Creche has a 5 star licence from Fenland Council? But do you know why that’s so important?

Any dog daycare businesses, including people operating as part of a franchise, are now required to monitor all dog behaviour, company and the environment in which they are cared for. For a dog daycare to be fully licensed, in their care, your dog must be:

• Assessed before they can go to the daycare provider to make sure they are not scared, anxious or stressed around other dogs and people.
• Able to access an area where they can go to the toilet when they want to.
• Able to access an area where they can avoid seeing people or other dogs if they choose to.
• Daycare providers aspiring to even higher standards will also document the interactions your dog has with people throughout the day.

As always, if you feel that these conditions aren’t being met, we urge you to walk away (taking your dog with you) and file a report to the kennel’s local council. You can visit CGSG online to find out more about how your dog should be looked after while in dog daycare.

Full credit for this article goes to https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/dogs/environment/kennels

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Choosing a puppy for and your family should be something that is done with a great deal of thought and care.

Here are a few things to think about before acquiring your puppy.

• It is important before you go and buy a puppy to think about the level of activity you are prepared to give your pup and the dog it will become. Some breeds of dog need more exercise than others.
• How much space do you have in your home and garden?
• The sex of the dog may be another thing you will want to decide on.
• If you are going to buy a cross breed it can be interesting to have a look at any information about the breeds involved in the cross (if you know what the crosses are).
• If the dog is purebred then you want to think about what breed of dog you are interested in and find out everything you can about the breed The Kennel Club can be helpful with telling you just what the breed should look like (the breed standard).
• Think about the type of coat the dog may have. Will it shed, will it require a lot of grooming, and will it require professional clipping and/or grooming?
• Find out about the health issues related to the breed you are interested in. For example is this type of dog prone to skin disease or eye problems

Breeders and the puppy’s parents

With information you have gained about the breed of your choice you should now be prepared to go and visit the breeder’s home and to ask questions. A good breeder will also want to ask you questions so that they can decide if you are suitable for their pups.

Breeders should be approachable, willing and able to give you the information you require about the puppies and their parenting. They should also be able to supply you with information on; worming, inoculations, and feeding.

If they are Kennel Club registered obtain a certificate or a written document that says they will forward it to you as soon as it is received from the Kennel Club.

Always visit the breeder’s home. Do not to have the puppy delivered because you will never really know what the mother is like in temperament nor will you know what type of environment the pup was brought up in. It is important to meet the mother of the pups and if possible the father. Visiting also means you have a chance to talk with the breeder, look at any paperwork, see how the mother is with you and the pups, how the pups are with each other and their environment.

It is not always possible to see the father because they don’t always belong to the owner of the mother. However, it is necessary to see how sociable they or at least the mother is with people. Does the mother look like the breed? Are the parents clean, healthy, and happy? Do the parents have any obvious physical, temperament, or behaviour problems? Are the parents cowering away from you, are they aggressive or do they run away from you? Are the parents barking at you? Puppies can grow up to be like their parents so if you see any of the above problems it is possible that the puppies will grow up with the same problem.

The Puppies

The puppies should look clean, happy and healthy. Their environment should be clean and warm with warm bedding and fresh water.

They should be moving around normally and not sitting in an unusual manner (could indicate underlying hip problems).

They should be eating a well balanced diet.

Find out how often they have human contact; it should be frequent throughout the day.

Are the puppies kept in the house? If not are they warm, dry and experiencing the normal background noises in a home such as the radio, people talking, and walking, sounds of the kitchen etc.

Have the puppies been experiencing an enriched environment (this is when the pups are given different toys to play with and areas to explore)? Puppies need to explore (small areas) and have things to play with in order to simulate them mentally, which will help their brains to develop normally. However, they should not be given too many things or too large an area to explore because this could be over whelming and frighten them. But it is important for them to have a few objects and small amounts of new experiences, which will stimulate all 5 senses to help them to develop mentally and physically. New experiences must be given carefully to the new pup.

Remember if you don’t like what you see make your excuses and leave.

Puppy’s Age

At 4 weeks the puppies should be weaned onto a solid diet.

Find out what food the puppy is eating.

Puppies should legally not be sold at less than 6 weeks old.

Ideally a puppy should be 8 weeks of age when they go to a new home this allows for the mother to have completed her disciplinary training of the pups such as teaching bite inhibition. This time is a very important learning time for the pups they learn how to interact and communicate with other dogs properly. However, not every mother is good at discipline and in large litters the mother can not always get around to them all so if they are left with their siblings too long some may become bullies. Therefore puppies are usually recommended for sale at 8 to 10 weeks of age.

Once the decision has been made the breeder should supply you with all the necessary paperwork and a diet sheet telling you exactly what, how much, and when the pup is fed. It is very important not to change the diet immediately as this can cause stomach upset.

Remember it will be stressful for the pup to leave its family and to go into a new home with virtual strangers. Allow your pup time to adjust to its new environment and people. Try and keep everything calm and gentle in order that every new experience for your new pup is a nice one. It is important for the puppy’s happy adjustment that the puppy’s new life is not overwhelming.

This article is provided by and with thanks to http://www.apdt.co.uk

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Dogs with injuries caused by grass seeds is an extremely common seasonal problem. Breeds with hairy ears and hairy feet are more at risk if walked in meadows or woodlands where these grasses commonly grow in abundance. The common occurrence of problems caused by grass seeds is mainly down to their minute shape coupled with its unique design. When examined closely, dry Foxtail grass seeds resemble tiny arrowheads. This enables them to attach themselves easily to an animal’s fur and burrow into the skin of that victim’s body part.

Where do grass seeds commonly affect dogs?
The two most common presentations of a dog with a grass seed are the foot and the ear, although other places on your dog’s body can be at risk too. Grass seeds commonly get in between the toes of the dog’s foot, referred to as the interdigital space. The grass seed already attached to the surrounding soft feathery fur now makes its way towards the foot itself, penetrating with ease the thin skin before starting to burrow deep into – and through – highly sensitive tissues of the foot resulting in extreme pain, discomfort, infection and sudden onset (acute) lameness.

The second most common place for these seeds to cause problems is down the ear canal, their uni-directional nature and shape allows the grass seed to work its way from the fur around the ears down along the ear canal, and come to rest right up against the delicate ear drum.

How can I tell that my dog has been affected by grass seeds?
Your dog may shake its head and vigorously lick its paws. They may also look uncomfortable, lethargic and in a lot of pain. If you notice any of the above signs, especially head-shaking, paw-licking or any other abnormality – then call your vet straightaway for the most successful treatment outcomes. Finally, please help to raise awareness and tell others, especially first-time dog owners, of the symptoms to look out for, as a tiny little grass seed can often be the cause of one of the most painful, expensive, and common conditions our beloved dogs can suffer from.

What treatment is available for dogs that have been affected by grass seeds?
Your vet may try fishing around through the entry-hole with a specially designed long pair of tweezers called ‘crocodile forceps’. As grass seeds are made from vegetable matter they’re invisible on x-ray (unlike bone or metal) so their exact location within the paw is usually a mystery. Sometimes a second hole is detected where the grass seed has already travelled through the entire foot and exited through the other side leaving a narrow empty tunnel, or ‘sinus’, connecting the two.

If it is the ear that is affected, your vet may examine the ear to confirm the diagnosis and remove the grass seed with tweezers. Your vet may prefer to sedate your dog as they may be in too much pain to allow your vet to examine and for safe removal.

Thanks to
https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/health/for-owners/grass-seeds/?gclid=CjwKCAjwvJvpBRAtEiwAjLuRPU-5Ryr115y9h1H7yqyQO1Kvgs0YQe1svuXIcMl5FFG6XC0GUVwknhoCFucQAvD_BwE for the information in this article.

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We want to reassure you that we are taking all possible precautions within the creche to keep your dogs protected including being very vigilant in ensuring that all dogs using any of our facilities are vaccinated.

Parvovirus (parvo) is a nasty virus that attacks the lining of the intestines in puppies and dogs. It causes severe diarrhoea, vomiting and illness. Parvo is serious and if it’s not treated quickly it can cause death.

Puppies are particularly susceptible but it can affect unvaccinated dogs of any age. Thankfully regular vaccination protects against parvo.

Parvo is extremely contagious between dogs but humans can’t catch it.

The post ParvoVirus appeared first on Cambridgeshire Canine Creche.

New legislation means that every canine day care and boarding facility including home boarders need to be licenced to be a legal business and each will be given a ‘score’. Owners should always ask for proof of licence before leaving their dog anywhere!

We were absolutely delighted to have received a 5 Star low risk licence under the new legislation. This means we have the highest possible award you can get.

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